How to Fit Cornice and pelmet the Easy Way, First Time

How to fit the cornice (the moulding on top of the wall units and tall housings).  It is best to cut and fit the longest piece first in case an error is made as you can then try again with a new piece and cut the wrong sized piece up into smaller pieces.

To cut the cornice and valance it is advisable to use a good capability chopsaw. These can be hired or you can buy your own as they are very useful to have if you are practically minded. These machines, like all power tools, need to be used with care to ensure your protection and the long life of the machine. Never try to cut too much in one go. The sound of the motor will tell you if you are being too hard on it.

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Care needs to be taken when measuring because the cornice normally overhangs the units and doors, so this needs to be allowed for when measuring.  Take a scrap piece of cornice and position it on top of the wall unit to see how much overhand you want.  It may be advisable to temporarily hang a door so you can have a good idea on how it looks.

Where possible try to cut the exact angle on one end first then place the whole length in place.  Pop a screw into the end to fetch it in place whilst captivating to the other end to thought about mark the cornice to length. Then go back and take the screw out and cut the piece to length. 

The cornice is best secured to the top of the cabinets by drilling holes in the cornice every 300mm or so.  If there is microscopic or no entrance above the cornice to get to the screws then drill the holes through the top of the cabinets.

Tip: If there is adequate cornice try to cut a length up in the same order as they go colse to the units, so that on the mitres the grain matches.  Obviously when you start a new length the grain on wooden cornice may not match but you can take a look at all the pieces you have and lay them end to end and swap them colse to to give the best continuity of colour and grain.

When the first piece has been fitted measure the approximate length of the next piece and cut the relevant angle on it. If it is ok go to the opposite end and mark it to length. When the cornice is ready to fit, drill holes in the bottom taking care that the holes are over the wall unit and not on the edge or missing the unit altogether.

Now put a good capability Pva adhesive on the joint and push it into place.

When the joint is properly aligned and cleaned up hold into position with 20mm masking tape and then screw the cornice into place.

Sometimes the screw nearest to the joint can as a matter of fact move the joint when fully tightened so in that situation just back the screw off a microscopic and tighten it later when the glue has dried.

The glue normally dries in 30 minutes but leave on as long as possible or until the next day.

The next job is to fit the light pelmet, which is the moulding fitted below the wall units which traditionally, as the name implies, screens the lights that are fitted below the wall units.

Often when the valance has been fitted and the lights are turned on, light can shine through the gap between the bottom of the wall unit and top of the pelmet. This can be resolved by using a dark silicone or mastic behind the valance where it meets the wall unit.

When it comes to fixing the valance in place there are two ways to do it depending on the profile of the moulding.

If it's an L shape moulding the fixing can be through the extension piece of the L. Care needs to be taken when choosing the length of screws.

 If the moulding is a single profile then you have to fix down through the bottom of the cabinets.

If the tiling is being done as well as the kitchen it is best to fit the valance along the fronts and then cut all of the returns that go back to the wall but not fit them.

Do all of the tiling and grouting before trimming and fitting the returns. On some types of valance it is not possible to screw the returns, so these are best secured by running clear silicone along the top of the valance and putting a good capability adhesive on the joint and pushing it into place.

The silicone will hold the valance whilst the joint is properly aligned, cleaned up and taped with 20mm masking tape. The glue normally dries in 30 minutes but leave on as long as possible or until the next day.

How to Fit Cornice and pelmet the Easy Way, First Time

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Getting Rid of the Stinky Kitchen Sink Odor - How to Do it the Right Way

One of the smelliest odors in the kitchen is the kitchen sink. The annoying odor is so gross that sometimes it can make us vomit. There is a clarification to keep that stinky and irritating smell. There are so many industrial products designed to get rid of the stink smell in the sink.

These products may comprise harmful chemicals that are fatal to animals and to human. There are safer alternatives base in our households that will also work perfectly. By using these alternatives, it can save you more money and minimize the risk of injury.

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Using distilled vinegar, pour at least 3 cups of it into the drain and let it sit for a while. When rinsing, use a warm water to take off the foul odor in the kitchen sink. The smell of the vinegar will just disperse after a few hours production the drain fresh and clean. Other homeowners used mixtures into the vinegar clarification like soap or other scented products.

After a suitable rinse, apply some baking soda into the sink because it acts as a freshener. Pour about a cup of baking soda in the drain and let it stay overnight. Then, flush the drain using water early in the morning in order to restore the clean scent from the drain.

Other types of air freshener can also be used. For example, mixing some of the lemon juices and a small salt will make the whole kitchen smelling fresh. Let the scent fill the whole room of the kitchen for some hours. Then let the water flow in the drain after neutralizing the drain odor.

To kill the bacteria that molds the drain and leaving the drain smelling fresh, plainly use the base household bleach. This is other way to get rid of stinking odor in the sink. This can be done by pouring 2 to 3 cups of bleaching products into the drain.

Allow to sit for at least an hour or more to thoroughly kill the bacteria in the kitchen sink. After an hour, flush the drain using cold water for at least five minutes. Take precautionary actions when handling bleach. All the time keep these products away from children and animals.

Do a routine work in cleaning and maintaining the kitchen sink? For once in a week, flush the drain using a cup of distilled vinegar to keep the drain clean if necessary. This will also eliminate the bad odors in the sink.

Getting Rid of the Stinky Kitchen Sink Odor - How to Do it the Right Way

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How to Stop Your Fridge From icy Over

If your fridge keeps freezing over no matter what setting that you have it on, you'll need to frame out what the qoute is before you can fix it. Fortunately, there are just a merge of things that can cause this qoute with fridge freezers, so it shouldn't take long too narrow down what needs replacement. This is the case no matter what brand you have, whether it is a Whirpool fridge freezer or a Smeg fridge freezer.

The first thing you need to check is your refrigerator's thermometer. If this is not functioning correctly, it can cause foods to freeze at the lowest setting. You'll need to take out the thermometer in order to test it. It can be settled in dissimilar parts of your refrigerator depending on the brand and the model, so check your by hand if you still have it. One of the most coarse spots for it to be found is under the floor at the bottom, but it may also be in the freezer section at the back. Shelves or the floor panel may need to be taken out in order to reach the thermometer. If you find that this is the problem, it should be easy to find a replacement.

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If your thermometer is in working order, you may have a faulty door damper that is causing the fridge to freeze over. This isn't in all models of fridge freezers and is more coarse in side by side brands. The door damper is a sliding or swinging door that opens and shuts when the climatic characteristic settings are adjusted or the door is opened. This door damper qoute can be caused by a motor or a broken thermostat.

Finally, your food freezing issues might be caused by a failed cold control. It is simple to check if this is the problem. You'll need to first put your climatic characteristic settings to the middle. If you have two dissimilar control switches, they should both be set this way. Then fill three plastic cups with water. Set one on the top shelf, one on the middle, and one on the bottom. Leave them undisturbed for a day. When you check on them twenty-four hours later, they should still have water in them. If they have frozen, the refrigerator qoute may be a broken cold control.

After you have carefully what is causing your fridge to freeze even at the lowest setting, you can then resolve how to repair it. If it is a thermometer qoute you may want to replace it on your own. For the more difficult problems you may need to use a pro repair someone unless you have sense with home repairs.

How to Stop Your Fridge From icy Over

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How to Make Jerky - Step-by-Step Instructions

Before the invention of refrigeration and preservatives, the only way to hold meat for long periods of time was to dry it into jerky. Drying meat into jerky is perhaps the oldest way of preserving meat and jerky dates back to the earliest civilizations.

Traditionally, jerky was made from long, thin strips of meat that was salted and dried in the sun or over a small smokey fire. Although jerky can still be made in this way, techniques have come to be more sophisticated in our day. Jerky is still an highly beloved food and millions of people still enjoy jerky as a delicious, convenient, and healthy source of protein. Jerky is perfect for hikers, campers, or just an easy, non-messy snack.

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Today, jerky is most generally made from beef, but jerky can also be made from poultry, fish, and wild game such as deer (venison), elk, buffalo, bison, moose, caribou, antelope, and other game. Many varieties of seasonings can be used to make distinct flavors of jerky. Salt is traditionally used as the main preservative for jerky, but acids such as vinegar and citrus juice in marinades can also help to kill bacteria. Jerky can be made without salt, but its shelf life will be drastically reduced.

Store-bought jerky comes in many flavors with any whole of chemicals, additives, and preservatives and can be surprisingly expensive. However, you can make your own jerky at home very easily. Most people are surprised at just how easy it is to make appetizing jerky that is much economy and healthier than mass-produced jerky ready in stores. So by development your own jerky, you not only operate the ingredients, you also save money.

Jerky Making: Step-by-Step Instructions
Select a cut of meat. Selecting a lean cut will save time later. For beef jerky, cuts like like sirloin, top round, eye of round, etc. Are good choices. You can also use venison or virtually any other type of meat to make jerky. Trim all of the noticeable fat from your cut of meat because any fat will cause the jerky to spoil much faster. Slice your meat into very thin strips from 1/8" to 1/4" thick. Cutting the meat into thin slices dramatically shortens drying time. You can cut jerky with just a knife and cutting board, but there are some convenient tools you can use for slicing meat, such as a Jerky Slicing Tray, a Hand-Crank by hand Jerky Slicer, or an galvanic meat slicer. Tip: Slicing meat is easier if you ice the meat for about 30 to 60 minutes before slicing. You can cut with or against the grain, but some find that strips cut against the grain are easier to chew. Marinate the meat in a marinade or explication of your choice. You can follow a recipe to make your own marinade or purchase any whole of ready-made marinades. Marinating is optional because the supplementary moisture can make dehydration take longer, and the resulting jerky might be stickier. Soaking in soy sauce or teriyaki sauce is a favorite. Place in the refrigerator for 4 - 24 hours to allow the meat digest the flavor. Season the meat with the dry seasonings of your choice. You can follow a jerky recipe or pick from a wide collection of ready dry jerky seasoning mixes. A mixture of salt, pepper, oregano, marjoram, basil and thyme is tasty. You will find that many seasonings work well and it is a personal preference. I personally enjoy jerky with a lot of pepper. You will need to experiment to find your favorites. Just sprinkle and rub the dry seasonings onto both sides of the sliced meat. Dehydrate the meat. Meat is dehydrated by applying heat and continuous air flow. The operate of both the temperature and the airflow is very important. If the humidity is too high and the temperature is too low, the jerky will dry too gently and it could spoil. If the temperature is too high, the jerky will cook too fast, dry on the face but still be too moist on the inside, and once again, it could spoil. There are two common methods for drying jerky; in a approved oven or in a food dehydrator. Whichever recipe you use, be sure to leave sufficient room in the middle of pieces to allow air to flow around the meat. Avoid letting the meat touch if possible. Making Jerky in a approved Oven Preheat your oven to 140 degrees. Remember you are not cooking the meat; you are naturally removing the moisture. Spray all the racks you will use with a non stick cooking spray. Without this non-stick spray, you will be left with jerky that cannot be removed from the racks and that will essentially be inedible. Spread the meat evenly on wire racks in the oven. You can also use metal racks other than the oven racks with a drip pan underneath to make cleanup much faster. Leave the oven door open slightly to permit moisture to escape. Since temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, there can be no set time for the process to complete. Usually jerky takes from 6 to 12 hours. Check the consistency of the jerky Usually after 6 hours until it meets your satisfaction. You might have to cut into the jerky to ensure that it is not raw inside. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and fragile so you don't want to over dry. Making Jerky in a Food Dehydrator Food Dehydrators are perfect for development jerky. Dehydrators are reasonable to buy and are safer and economy to use than the kitchen oven. Additionally dehydrators make less of a mess and are easier to clean up. Spray the dehydrator trays with a non-stick cooking spray before placing on the strips of meat. This keeps the meat from sticking and helps in the clean up of the trays. Season the jerky strips just as above and drain them well before placing them on the dehydrator trays. A full dehydrator can Usually process a large batch of jerky in 6 to 12 hours. Just like with drying in a approved oven, temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, so the drying time will vary. You will want to check the jerky Usually after 6 hours to see if its done. You want the jerky to be a deep brown or burgundy color and still be flexible. As jerky cools, it will get more stiff and fragile so you don't want to over dry. The thicker cuts will take more time, so as the thin pieces are done, just remove them. Tip: A rule of thumb is that 4 pounds of raw meat makes about one pound of jerky. Store the closed jerky in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to eat. To be safe, it's best to enjoy the fresh homemade jerky within one week of its preparation. If you make it right, it's delicious!Tip: If you wish to store your jerky for longer, use a vacuum sealer to store the jerky in vacuum bags. Other storehouse methods allow exposure to oxygen and moisture, which encourages the increase of bacteria. In vacuum sealed bags, jerky can be kept for months. Vacuum sealed jerky stored in a freezer can last even longer.
Alternative: Jerky Snack Strips & Sticks
Instead of development jerky from sliced meat, a beloved form of jerky is the jerky snack stick or snack strip, which is made from seasoned ground meat formed into strips or round sticks. To make this jerky snack, you first need to purchase extra lean ground meat or grind lean cuts of meat with a meat grinder. The next step is to mix the seasonings into the ground meat by hand or with a meat mixer. The seasoned ground meat can then be extruded into the snack sticks or strips using a Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon. Finally, these jerky snacks are dehydrated on trays in a approved oven or food dehydrator as described above.

Who knew it was so easy to make your own jerky? Enjoy!

How to Make Jerky - Step-by-Step Instructions

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preparation Dungeness Crab

It's simple! preparation your Dungeness Crab is quick, easy & something the whole house or your guests can enjoy participating in. Dungeness Crab has become very popular with many folks who are more familiar with other types of crab. preparation frosty Dungeness Crab is different: cooking them as if they were live produces less than stellar results.

(Hint: Boiling the Crab on arrival is a definite No No)

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Frozen Dungeness Crab is ready to eat when you receive them! It has already been cooked & brine frozen. You can enjoy it hot or cold! Dungeness Crab is available as Whole Cooked Crab and as Crab Sections (Clusters). What's the difference?

Whole Cooked Crab - The whole crab is cooked from live, quick chilled & brine frozen. They are then located in poly bags. When you receive the crab, they should be re-heated in a steamer (think spaghetti pot with strainer) or oven at 400 F under tented foil. It will take 9-12 minutes to get the interior climatic characteristic of the crab to 165 F. The crab can be steamed from frosty or thawed, cleaned and steamed. Do Not Over Cook The Crab! It is already cooked so you just want to re-heat it. If you steam or bake them for too long, you are cooking them twice and the end effect will be stringy crab meat!

Directions:

Cleaning the Crab:

Hold the Crab in your left hand (claws towards the left) and place your right hand on the back of the top shell.

Put your right thumb under the shell and pull up. The whole top shell should take off in one piece. (Clean & save the shell for an oven baked side dish or ramekin for dipping sauce.)

Pull the green gill material off the inside of the opened Crab.

Next, there is a small "V" section of lower Crab shell in the back that cab be removed with your thumb as well.

Remove the loose brown material from the town of the crab.

Rinse the Crab in Cold Water for a few seconds; this will take off the remainder of the brine & internal pieces.

Heating the Crab before serving:

Take your Spaghetti Pot with Strainer inside, 2 or 3 cups of water in the bottom, bring to a boil and steam crab for about 9-12 minutes (Whole Crab) or 6-9 minutes (Cleaned Crab).

Oven or Bbq method:

Place Crab in a foil lined baking pan or Pyrex dish. Add about 3/8 inch water to the pan bottom.

Cover with an aluminum foil tent.

Place in pre-heated Oven or Bbq at 400 degrees for about 9-12 minutes (Whole Crab) or 6-9 minutes (Cleaned Crab). (165 degree internal temperature)

Dungeness Crab Sections (Clusters) - Most of the work is done for you! The crab may be butchered from live then cooked or cooked as whole crab and then cleaned. Dungeness Sections consist of all the edible quantum of the crab. Since they are cleaned before freezing, you may enjoy them hot or cold! If you want to eat them cold, just thaw in the refrigerator, rinse over the sink to take off the brine and eat! The crab can be steamed from frosty or thawed and steamed. It will take 6-9 minutes to get the interior climatic characteristic of the crab to 165 F. It is already cooked so you just want to re-heat it. If you steam or bake them for too long, you are cooking them twice and the end effect will be stringy crab meat!

Directions:

Heating the Crab Sections before serving:

Take your Spaghetti Pot with Strainer inside, 2 or 3 cups of water in the bottom, bring to a boil, add crab & steam for 6-9 minutes. Depending on either you are steaming thawed or steaming from frozen.

Oven or Bbq method:

Place Crab in a foil lined baking pan or Pyrex dish. Add about 3/8 inch water to the pan bottom.

Cover with an aluminum foil tent.

Place in pre-heated Oven or Bbq at 400 degrees for 6-9 minutes depending on either you are steaming thawed or steaming from frozen. (about as long as a medium rare steak) (165 degree internal temperature)

Enjoy!

preparation Dungeness Crab

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How To Fix a Frost - Free Refrigerator That Is Leaking Water

A common qoute with some frost free refrigerators is water leakage out of the refrigerator. This strangeness qoute leads to puddles in the lowest of the refrigerator and on the floor in front of it. Seems like a pretty strange thing for a frost free refrigerator to experience. What could be causing it, and what to do about it?

That kind of fridge periodically goes straight through a defrost cycle. The blower goes off, the compressor goes off, and a heater comes on in the freezer. This melts the frost off the evaporator coil and the resulting water runs down a drain that is located in the back of the freezer under the freezer covers.

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Down the drain...

Except that if the freezer has not been kept scrupulously clean, stuff can get under the covers and block that drain. In this case, the water backs up and freezes. Then it builds up. Eventually, the ice in the freezer under the cover has reached the point where, when the defrost cycle comes on, the water runs out into the refrigerator portion.

Mid sized Kelvinators and White-Westinghouse refrigerators are particularly susceptible to this problem, although I have seen it in other brands.

To solve the qoute you have to take the covers off inside the freezer. Chip out the ice, and clean out the drain.

Some habitancy have had success with wrapping a copper wire around the heater in the freezer and directing the end of that wire down the drain. The idea is that the copper wire will divert extra heat to the drain opening while the defrost cycle, and this will help preclude the formation of the ice plug which ultimately causes the backup. Also, the wire sticking down into the drain acts to keep objects that have migrated straight through the vents (thing like onion skins, or small pieces of paper or plastic) from the freezer from thoroughly outside the drain and blocking it.

How To Fix a Frost - Free Refrigerator That Is Leaking Water

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How to Fix a Warped Door

A warp in a door does not found overnight - it happens gradually, so the sooner you notice, the easier it is to correct. The first real sign may be the door not end properly, or the lock failing to work.

Doors made from badly seasoned timber are particularly prone to warping, though once you have corrected the warp it is unlikely to return. However, in some instances the warping is caused by exterior factors - such as a radiator sited too close to the door, or bad ventilation. If you presume that this is the case, take steps to deal with the external problems or the warp may recur.

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If the warp is not too severe, there are any ways of forcing the door against the twist. Some of these, however, need the door to be kept shut and in many cases this is not convenient.

If you can keep the door shut, wedging it shut against the warp for a few days may well prove to be effective.

To do this, look along the door to check the extent of the warp. Then, with the door just touching the doorstop, measure the gap between the door and stop at the widest point and cut a wooden block slightly larger than this gap. Fit the block at the point where the door and stop shut, so that it touches the stop at top and bottom. If leaving the door shut isn't possible, you can either try altering the position of the hinge on the door frame to take up the twist (see diagram), or else alter the doorstop. How you do this depends on either you have a stop which is a isolate piece of wood nailed on (planted) or one cut out of the wood of the door frame itself (rebated). If you have a planted stop, close the door and cut a block of wood slightly larger than the widest gap. Run the block down the edge of the door marking the stop with a pencil. Prise the stop off. Loosen with an old chisel then pull away from the frame with your hands. Plane the stop then refit it flush with the door.

A rebated stop forms part of the door frame and can't be removed. Instead you have to add a shaped piece to the stop to fill the gap.

To do this, measure the length of the gap between the door and stop. Then measure the width at the widest point.

Cut a wedge to these dimensions (see diagram) and nail it to the stop at the suitable point. Once the wedge is in position, trim it again until you get a exquisite fit.

The remedies above only work if the door has warped at the top or bottom corner. If it has warped in the centre you will have to cut a curved wedge tapered at both ends.

Another way to deal with this problem, if you can take off the door, is to try laying it flat, supported on two chairs, bowed side up. Place some heavy weights on top and leave it for a few days.

How to Fix a Warped Door

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What to Do When Your Dog Or Cat Won't Eat

Your dog won't eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?

First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But all the time have your pet seen by a vet when there's a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet's eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complicated and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of perceive as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet's situation.

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We'll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some inherent reasons why and ideas for fixing it.

If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in Tiny pieces, it's not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog's food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn't touched, pick it up and put it away. Don't feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you're doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won't starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify Your behavior if you cave in.

If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to "holdout" to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you Must change the pet's diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small number of the new diet to the old food, and each day, growth the number of the new feed while decreasing the number of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.

With picky eaters, it's prominent to feed a "super premium" brand of dog food. These foods cost a dinky more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is genuinely eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery shop (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more "calories per cup" in a superior food, they're genuinely getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick's "Grammy's Pot Pie" (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.

Mixing kibble with a small number of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to growth a pet's appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.

Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She's under a vet's care, but the task of getting cusine into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he Wants to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to join together food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to Want to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.

We'll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical clarification that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: manufacture dog food taste even better.

You don't want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a genuinely informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by habitancy in the dog fancy and are recommend Only as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber's baby food - especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, bungalow cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup - and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.

Sometimes, you may need to "jump start" an appetite with something so enticing, it's irresistible. Here is the customary formula for "Satin Balls," one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other beloved e-mail lists for serious dog people:

10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat
1 lg. Box of Total cereal
1 lg. Box oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ
1 1/4 cup veg oil
1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses
10 raw eggs And shells
10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin
pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, growth energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn't a substitute for meals, it's meant to whet a dog's appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.

Next, we move on to "fixes" that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be sufficient for question appetites; "Pet-Tinic" is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is facilely appropriate and one "tester" reported that it brought back her pet's appetite roughly immediately, Because of its contents, you'll want to have your vet's approval before using this. "Nutri-Cal" is pure cusine that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it's a quick way to get cusine into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides roughly 150 fat containing vitamins and minerals that mouth constant therapeutic blood levels.

If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own religious doctrine is that a lack of appetite is a lousy infer for a dog to die. What you'll read next isn't pleasant - but if you love your dog, you have to get cusine into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can't eat on his own: syringe food into the dog's mouth, stuff food down the dog's throat, hook the dog up to an Iv, or insert a stomach tube. I've done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they're preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.

Syringing: You'll need a consolidate of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; resolve the number your dog needs to reserve his weight, divide that number in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will come to be inseparable over the advent days). Add sufficient warm water to blend genuinely into a very fine puree and for each meal, gradually syringe the puree into the side of the dog's lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog's mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog's mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don't want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you're done. Remember, it's not the dog's fault he's unable to eat and it's only temporary until the appetite comes back.

Stuffing: This was my least beloved means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make "food bombs" that are narrow sufficient to slide down the back of the dog's throat. These "bombs" are a composition of wet & dry food that's been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are genuinely good at doing this - and some dogs who just don't eat well come to be so used to eating this way that they'll stand calmly, lift up their dinky heads and open their mouths like guppies in prospect for the next "bomb." Since all we care about is getting cusine into the dog, if this works for you,that's what counts.

Iv: A "no brainer." At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It's no substitute for the fat gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.

Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but dinky choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs - these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we idea it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.

The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was So long, it had to be wrapped around my dog's mid section and secured with a lady's tube top when not in use. I ready the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog's mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was advent and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.

Each day before I approached the blender, I all the time offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn't going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank argument about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The "Bard" was a gastronomy expedient made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon "button" inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a dinky "lid" flicked open like the flip-top measure of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.

The tube enabled my dog to live a consolidate of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog's survival, it wasn't something I discussed openly. Too many habitancy out there feel that if a dog can't eat on his own, he's not meant to live. To them I say, "Phooey." The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn't eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn't do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?

Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat shop as fuel. The old fat shop are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn't burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.

The resulting liver disorder is known as "hepatic lipidosis", or "fatty liver disease." This health may be recommend when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don't all the time get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don't eat.

But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more inherent Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the distinct reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The lowest line, however,is that you have less "wiggle room" when a cat won't eat. Tries these tips:

-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.
-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a dinky piece of food to her.
-Offer extra treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.
-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.
-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay comprise onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it's too salty;
-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.

Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:
Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:
- Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh
- Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey
- Half Pound of lean, minced beef
- Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, comprise one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.

Mix foods together.

There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat's appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have inherent side effects so it's prominent to talk with your vet.

Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an choice for cats.

Good luck and know that you're not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.

What to Do When Your Dog Or Cat Won't Eat

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Dishwasher Secrets - Make It Clean Perfectly

As a assistance firm we are permanently asked, "Why doesn't my dishwasher clean better". To this query we offer the following insights and suggestions.

Whenever we diagnose a "poor cleaning" complaint the main things we want to know are:

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1)Is the water hot enough, 2)are you using a proper detergent, 3)
are you using a rinse additive, and 4) your loading practices.

1 Water temperature

Most manufacturers recommend a minimum 120 Fahrenheit for the dishwasher to begin the cleaning process, 140 to take off food soiling, and 155 to sanitize and take off bacteria. In restaurants they boost the dishwasher climatic characteristic to 180 Fahrenheit to satisfy condition requirements. Consumers misunderstanding these requirements have led to problems for the household dishwasher.

In a dishwasher the climatic characteristic of the wash water is paramount. Unfortunately, It is now coarse to find household water temperatures of 100 Fahrenheit, or less.

Many population have lowered their household water climatic characteristic in an exertion to be conscientious consumers. Yes, it lowers electrical consumption. Unfortunately it has other consequences.

Manufacturers say it does not supply enough heat to clean dishes properly and can leave them covered in bacteria and food residue. Supporters of lower water temperatures claim it is both environmentally friendly and indispensable to safe children from any possibility of scalding at bath time.

One of the latest ideas is a mixing valve added to hot water tanks. It is preset and will not allow temperatures in excess of 115 Fahrenheit. It does this by mixing cold water with the hot to maintain this preset maximum.

This debate over hot water tank temperatures has resulted in a catch 22 type scenario. Lower the climatic characteristic to lower consumption and be more child safe, but end up leaving bacteria on the plates we use to eat.

Low water climatic characteristic can also work on the cycle length. If too low the dishwasher may keep stopping to try and heat the water. A general cycle of 40 minutes could be extended to 2 or 3 hours with all the heating delays. Some dishwashers may stall completely.

2 Using proper detergent

We always recommend you use a name brand detergent. A good detergent is always worth the price. So stay away from those that are super inexpensive, or ones that claims to clean the dishes plus all things else in the house. If unsure, ask your neighbours what they use.

Gel or crystal, the option is yours. Both seem to work equally well. Whichever form you prefer the one thing we always stress is, "when you find one that works for you stick with it ... Even if it costs more than others".

Crystal is less messy, while gel will dissolve quicker with the water. If your water climatic characteristic is low (as described above) gel may be a option because it will mix better.

If using crystal detergent be aware that it can pick up moisture from the air. When this happens it will swell up and come to be lumpy or harden. These lumps will be difficult to break down and will not fully dissolve. If at cycle's end you see detergent left inside it may be evidence of hardened crystals.

Additional evidence of moisture buildup can be seen if the box itself appears to be swollen. If seen, replace immediately with a fresh box.

A box of detergent should be consumed within 2-3 months. If not throw it away and buy a new one. Match the box size to your needs. Do not buy a large box just because it is on sale. If you have to throw most of it away, it wasn't much of a bargain.

Some detergent manufacturers now offer a product that combines the detergent with the rinse additive. Others offer a detergent that includes a extra grease-dissolving agent. Still others are in a tab form, or inside a dissolvable plastic pouch.

Also dishwashing detergent and dishwasher detergent are not interchangeable. Trying to do so will cause problems. Each type of detergent is formulated to do a specific job.

"Dishwashing detergent" is the one used to wash dishes in the sink is. It is without fail not meant for the dishwasher. Anything who has ever mistakenly put it into the dishwasher can attest to the mess this will produce. The beating operation of the water will produce heavy amounts of suds. This results in the dishwasher flooding out the door and over the kitchen floor.

So the moral of this tale is: "Don't confuse dishwashing with dishwasher".

3 Rinse additive

This is something that gets forgotten once the free sample bottle that came with the dishwasher has been used.

Its job is to make the water run off the dishes faster so they can dry quicker. Without it there would be exiguous beads of water on all things at the end of the cycle. Glasses especially would appear to be water stained or be left with a gritty residue. So if poor cleaning is a problem, check the rinse additive level.

But remember, only one or two drops are added per load. A few ounces of rinse additive lasts a very long time. Such a long time those customers often think it is not being added, and blame the additive for problems it has nothing to do with

To refill, look on the dishwasher door for a cap or plug that is removable. It is often overlooked because the time between fill ups can be months. Also, the appliance manufacturers could help solve this problem if more of them added some sort of "Hey, I'm empty" indicator.

Frigidaire dishwashers have a neat exiguous indicator. Right next to the soap dispenser is a clear plastic eye that changes colour when the additive is empty. So every time you add detergent to the machine you also see this eye staring back at you. White if empty, and black if full. Simple, effective, and smart.

4 proper loading

Lastly, don't forget that how you load the dishes can drastically work on how well they are cleaned.

Proper loading will allow the water to drill all the nooks and crannies. Try the following suggestions:

· Cups and glasses on the top rack with bottoms up

· Plates on the lowest rack all facing the same direction

· Bowls whether rack, but all facing the same direction

· Utensils in the utensil owner in a mixed fashion (some knives, forks, spoons together in each compartment) to allow gaps between them

· Large items, such as a spatulas, laying down on top rack

Placing the dishes and utensils in an orderly manner actually does make for a great wash. It allows the water sprays to drill the dishes thoroughly. Try it ... It works.

The analogy I offer customers is: If you were going on a car trip would you pack the car efficiently, or just open the doors and throw all things inside so that the passengers had to fight with the luggage. I think you get the picture.

Dishwasher efficiency

If your dishwasher is having a mechanical problem the ensue may show up as poor cleaning. Anything from low water pressure, broken pump, not draining fully, or even a blocked filter could be the cause.

So how do you know if the machine needs repair? You don't. But, by checking all the former problems first a lot of the more coarse causes of poor cleaning can be actually eliminated.

Also, you have probably heard this a million times before, but before telephoning for assistance read you owner's manual. It can contain some indispensable information. It will ordinarily give you a checklist of items to test before calling for service.

Summing up

You now know what is needed to make the dishes come out of the dishwasher sparkling clean. Hot water, good detergent, rinse additive, and proper loading practices. That's it - that's all. supply all four of these things to the dishwasher and your cleaning success is guaranteed.

So load up the machine, go get yourself a liquid refreshment, put your feet up and let the dishwasher do all the work.

Dishwasher Secrets - Make It Clean Perfectly

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Turkey the Old-Fashioned Way

There are many delicious ways to get ready and serve turkey. It might be deep-fried, brined, poached, grilled...to mention just a few methods of preparation. This article, however, will focus strictly on tips and techniques for establishment perfect turkey the old-fashioned way - oven roasted.

Basic Technique for Roasting a Turkey...

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1. The safest formula for thawing a freezing turkey is by allowing the turkey to thaw in the refrigerator. Be definite to plan ahead...it will take practically 3 days for a 20 pound turkey to defrost.

2. everyone wants to get ready sufficient turkey for the whole of guests they serve, and commonly desire to have some turkey left over. To determine the accurate turkey size that will be needed, see the section below entitled 'How Much Turkey is Enough?'

3. Cooking time will differ depending on either the turkey was purchased fresh or frozen. Suspect approximate cooking time in a 350F (175C) oven based on the following: 20 minutes per pound for a defrosted turkey, and 10 to 15 minutes per pound for fresh.

4. A turkey will cook more evenly if it is not densely stuffed. As an alternative, flavor may be added by loosely filling the cavity with aromatic vegetables and/or fruit -- carrots, celery, onions, apples, oranges, kumquats or garlic. Carefully tucking fresh herbs underneath the breast skin will also add flavor.

5. Before roasting, coat the face of the turkey with vegetable or olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

6. For even roasting, it is best to truss the turkey, and especially so if roasting stuffed poultry. (See 'How to Truss a Turkey' below.)

7. Set the turkey on a rack in a large roasting pan to promote maximum air and heat circulation and to ensure that it cooks evenly. To yield moister, juicier white meat, place the turkey 'breast-down' on the rack. This technique will prevent the turkey breast from overcooking and becoming dry.

8. Set the roasting pan on the lowest rack of the oven to keep the turkey away from the top, which is the hottest part of the oven.

9. Once the turkey is cooking in the oven, resist the temptation to 'peek' inside by occasion the oven door. occasion and end the oven door will cause the climatic characteristic to fluctuate, which will only increase the likelihood of a dry turkey. Avoid occasion the oven door until practically 45 minutes before the turkey unbelievable to be done.

10. After checking for doneness (see 'When is the Turkey Done?' guidelines below), remove roasting pan from the oven, tent the turkey with foil and let it 'rest' for practically 15 minutes before carving (see tips on 'How to Carve a Turkey' below). If supplementary time is needed to get ready gravy, heat up side dishes, etc., the turkey may be allowed to sit at room climatic characteristic (covered) for up to an hour without losing too much heat.

11. Refrigerate any leftover turkey within 2 to 3 hours of preparation. Store in airtight, shallow packaging to allow sufficient circulation of cool air; date and label the containers. Turkey may be safely stored refrigerated for practically 5 days and freezing for up to 4 months.

================================

How Much Turkey is Enough?

On average, to furnish 2 servings of turkey for each guest (and allowing for leftovers), the suggested weights are as follows:

> 10 pound turkey for 6 people

> 12 pound turkey for 8 people

> 15 pound turkey for 10 people

> 18 pound turkey for 12 people

> 21 pound turkey for 14 people

> 24 pound turkey for 16 people

- If you will be serving more than 16 guests (a recommended turkey size of more than 24 pounds), buy two turkeys that equal the total suggested weights.

- If the recommended turkey size is less than 12 pounds, you may wish to buy a turkey breast to roast.

================================

How to Truss a Turkey...

To 'truss' means to gain poultry or meat into a covenant shape. Trussing will ensure even roasting. The following technique is recommended when roasting poultry, especially a stuffed turkey.

1. To truss with string, take a piece of butcher's string about three times the length of the turkey. Place the turkey on its back, tail end nearest to you. Slide the string underneath so that it is cradling the turkey in the center of its back.

2. Gradually pull the string up the sides...then colse to the wings. Pull the strings toward you, close to the breast, so that the wings are held against the body.

3. Cross the strings at the base of the breast, then wrap each string colse to the end of a drumstick.

4. Tie the ends of the string together, cinching it tightly so that the legs cross.

5. Finally, lift the turkey so that the tail end is up and wrap the string colse to the tail. Tie the string, pulling tightly so that the cavity is covered by the tail.

================================

When is the Turkey Done?

You will want to test your instant-read or original meat thermometer a few days before establishment the turkey to ensure it is properly calibrated. Place the thermometer in a pot of boiling water. It should register 212F (100C) -- water's boiling point at sea level. If the reading does not reach the desired temperature, you will want to buy a new thermometer.

Keep a faithful eye on the thermometer while the last half hour of cooking since the internal climatic characteristic may rise rapidly toward the end.

Using a meat thermometer, test for doneness in the thickest, meatiest parts of the turkey:

Test the widest section of the breast near the wing joint; the climatic characteristic should be 165F (73C).

Test the legs at the top of the thigh, near the hip joint; the climatic characteristic should be 180 (82C).

If cooking a stuffed turkey, determine the internal climatic characteristic of the stuffing as well; it should be at least 165F (73C).

If using an instant-read thermometer, insert it deep sufficient to reach the heat sensor (the indentation about two-inches from the tip).

Also contemplate the juices and oils at the lowest of the pan that are released while cooking. If they have a pinkish tinge, continue roasting; if they are clear, the turkey is probably done. (Try to insert the thermometer as infrequently as possible, to prevent the juices from escaping.)

Another way of checking for doneness is to move the leg up and down. The looser it becomes, the closer it is to being done.

================================

How to Carve a Turkey...

To carve a turkey, it is requisite that you use a sharp carving knife and a good, heavy-weight fork. The following instructions will make carving a turkey practically effortless.

1. Begin by cutting straight through the skin where the leg meets the breast. Pull the leg away from the body with the fork and continue to cut down, close to the body, to find the joint where the thigh meets the body. Pull the leg out supplementary and slice right straight through the joint to remove the leg and thigh.

2. Place the leg skin-side down and locate the line at the joint where the thigh and the drumstick meet. Retention your knife along this line of the thigh, you can slice in effect straight through the joint. If you hit resistance, adjust your angle and try again. Cut down straight through the line and isolate the thigh from the drumstick. Repeat this process with the other leg.

3. remove the wishbone (actually the collarbone) from the turkey. Removing the bone will prevent it from splintering when you carve the breast meat.

4. Next, run your knife straight through the skin along one side of the breastbone. Then cut down along the ribs, pulling the meat Gradually away from the bones in one large piece, leaving behind as diminutive meat as possible.

5. When you reach the wing joint, cut straight through it and continue to remove the breast from the body. Repeat with the other side.

6. Finally, remove the wings and slice the breast meat before serving. (For even, spicy slices, cut the meat against the grain.)

================================

So, there you have it...everything you need to know about successfully roasting a turkey.

As you can see, establishment a turkey by adhering to the techniques above is not at all difficult. The small whole of effort you spend will be well rewarded when the final goods reaches the serving table and your guests rave about how in effect noteworthy it is. Just remember one thing - serving a juicy, flavorful roasted turkey does not have to be reserved solely for the holiday season - it's astonishing anytime of the year.

Copyright ©2005 Janice Faulk Duplantis

Turkey the Old-Fashioned Way

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Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

I get many questions with regard to details of an accessible kitchen. Questions like, what is the accepted countertop height from the floor to the top of the counter, or what is the accepted toe-kick. The list goes on and on.  Are there special appliances or cabinets? In this narrative I will cover the basics, cabinets, flooring, lighting, electrical, and ultimately appliances.

Cabinets
Most cabinet manufacturers offer specific Ada compliant cabinets which will give you a final countertop height of 32" from the floor to the top of the counter. They will also contain the allowable toe-kick of 9" high by 6" deep. This provides room for the foot rest of a wheelchair to slide under the edge of the cabinet. This however does not provide access to the cook-top or sink. The base cabinets that will house these items will need to have knee space under the countertop. Now upper cabinets present a separate set of problems. Even if they are installed at the accepted height above the base cabinets only the lowest shelf will be accessible to someone seated in a wheelchair. I personally like to lower them other 6" so that the lowest two shelves are accessible. Or you could save the price and just leave them out. One last item, the base cabinets should have large deep drawers instead of cabinet doors, as these are more accessible.  

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Flooring
The flooring should be hard surface, such as wood or ceramic tile or stone. You should avoid any kind of flooring that has give or is cushioned. This kind of floor makes it difficult to move a by hand wheelchair nearby as does wall to wall rug or area rugs. Avoid these items if at all possible. Even the most innocent of kitchen rugs can be a dangerous tripping hazard for the disabled or elderly.
 
Lighting
With today's need to be green, lighting for the accessible kitchen is no longer carefully specialized. The use of Cfl (Compact Florescent Light) bulbs and Led under cabinet low voltage task lighting is base place. So the only thing that categorically needs to be said is that you need to provide task lighting in all food preparation areas.
 
Electrical
This is one area that is often overlooked as far where and how to install electrical outlets and switches in an accessible kitchen.  Wall outlets are regularly settled behind the base cabinet, whether above or in the backsplash. For someone seated in a wheelchair this means they have to make a dangerous reach in order to use the outlet. It is better to install the outlet in the face of the base cabinet, just under the countertop. Or a popup multi-outlet can be installed in the countertop itself within easy reach of the wheelchair occupant. Switches should be settled at 48" above the floor so that they are within reach of the wheelchair occupant. Use rocker type switches for those with exiguous use of their fingers. ultimately outlets that are on a wall without cabinets should be at least 18" above the floor for a safe reach in a wheelchair.

Appliances
While there is no need for specialized or practice appliances, certain types of appliances are best in an accessible kitchen. Let's start with the stove for example, a approved range cannot be used, A cut off cook-top and oven unit will need to be used. As mentioned before the cook-top will need a knee space below the cabinet. The oven should be mounted in a base cabinet so it can be categorically loaded and unloaded. A heat defiant surface at countertop level should be in case,granted to place hot pans on. Next a drawer type dishwasher can be mounted conventionally and categorically accessed from a wheelchair. However, a accepted front loading dishwasher will need to be raised 9" to make it easy to load and unload. The sinks will have to have rear mounted drains to allow for the knee space beneath and still allow for a disposal. The microwave should be mounted below the countertop. ultimately the refrigerator should whether be a side by side model or a French door model with the freezer on the bottom.
 
There are probably other items that you can do to make a kitchen even more accessible. Try sitting in a accepted kitchen chair in front of a question area and ask yourself what can I change, that will make this area more accessible.  I hope this helps those of you who need to make your kitchen more accessible for a wheelchair. If you have any questions don't hesitate ask. Remember breath Peace and God's Love..... 

Wheelchair Accessible Kitchen Or When the Chef Has Wheels

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Make Baking Easier With the Right Dough Roller

Rolling out dough by hand can be a back breaking task. A dough roller helps things along nicely without having to put your back into it. This is a great gadget that originally was made for industrial use but has made its way into the family kitchen over time.

There are normally two options for a dough roller. There is an electric selection that works virtually on its own and there is a hand crank selection that works with a bit of human power.

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Electric Option

The electric dough roller is found in almost all bakeries and other food processing places. The belief is very simple. There are normally two rollers where the dough is fed into these rollers are mounted within centimeters of each other. One roller is on top and one is on the bottom. The height is normally adjustable. The rollers move in unison and flatten out the dough. The height adjustment controls the thickness of the dough.

These models naturally need a flip of a switch to work the dough and of policy a electric source. On the larger more elaborate models a conveyor belt is also in place so that multiple amounts of dough can be rolled out one after the other without requiring anyone to feed the dough through the machine.

Hand Crank Models

Before electricity the only type of dough roller there was, was the hand cranked type. The rollers were attached to a crank which was turned by hand. This was still easier than hand rolling out the dough, but less legitimately than using the electric models.

There are still many hand cranked models in n use today, primarily in the home. Most industrial establishments do not have the time or the man power for hand cranked machines, but they are ideal for the home.

The law is exactly the same as it is for the electric models except there is not any electricity required. A minuscule elbow grease is what powers these machines.

Rolling Pin

A dough roller can also be a straightforward hand held rolling pin. This any way is the most labor laberious way to roll out dough. You legitimately have to put your back into rolling dough with a rolling pin. They are normally made from wood, but there are some models that are made from stone. A rolling pin is a singular roller with handles on whether side to grip so that the roller can be rolled over the dough to flatten it out.

A dough roller is critical if you are going to make any recipes that need dough.

Make Baking Easier With the Right Dough Roller

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The Ice Man - 1940

The Ice Man Cometh

Of policy no one had electric refrigerators in the 1940's, at least not in our neighborhood. So we were solely dependent on the "Ralph Kramden" ice box. This gadget was unique and useful. A two compartment unit made out of wood. And, it was lined with steel painted white. The top compartment was commonly smaller and that held the food that needed refrigeration. The lowest section was larger and held the block of ice.

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The top didn't have any shelves as I remember so food was kind of stuffed in as best you could. The lowest could if needed be used to keep things cold as well as keep the ice. No Freezer Section. If you wanted ice for drinks you just grabbed the ice pick and chipped off some ice for your drink. Or, take a large chunk wrap it in a towel and beat it with a hammer on the kitchen table. The early ice crusher was born. Let me tell you how impressed I was just with ice cubes in water. When my parents finally upgraded to a separate home my Mom one day set out a pitcher of water with ice cubes in it. No holiday, no special occasion. I belief we were rich.

The whole operation depended on keeping a regular furnish of ice in the ice box. The ice business provided a sign that could be hung in the front window of your house. It had four side with four separate sizes of ice on each side. Our job as kids after we were told was to hang the ice sign in the window and to make sure the size needed was at the bottom. And you best not forget.

The ice man would come along in his delivery truck on some designated schedule. He would read the sign in the window. Cut a block of ice that matched the signs requirement. He had a leather sling and shoulder pad that he used to carry the cube up on his shoulder with.Our guy was lucky. We lived in a house and the ice box was in the kitchen on the first floor. Sometimes the Ice Man had to carry the block of ice up flights of stairs to citizen who lived in apartments. His tools were ice tongs and ice pick. And of policy a strong back. Just think about this mans job. All day long up into the truck, cut a chunk of ice. Dismount load the block on your back and carry it to the Ice Box. And, ice tongs and ice picks, us kids were impressed.

You got self-acting delivery if the sign was in the window. The ice man just opened the front door with the cube of ice on his shoulder and hollered out "Ice Man". In he came found the ice box and put the new block of ice into it. Didn't matter what was going on in the family. He just let himself in the house. And, if I remember right he got paid cash on the spot.

Along his route as he was delivering he would sound the call "Ice Man", for those who needed ice but forgot to put up the sign. Or, the kids who forgot to do what their parents told them. If no one was around to corral him then you got no ice. And, issue was afoot. For you.

Now there were times when thing just didn't work out. We would run out of ice and the Ice Man wasn't due to deliver for some time. Here's where the advantages of having a child came in. Mom would say, "Get the wagon and go get some ice.". I don't know where the wagon ever came from but one became available. It was our job to go over to the Ice House and bring home a block of ice. For me that was a 10 block round trip. And, sometimes Mom would let you pick up a block of ice for a neighbor too.

Wagon in tow off you would go to get the ice. 8th and Dupont street on the angle over from Dela Donnes Store was the Ice House. It was a 8' X 10' wooden shed. Lined with steel and full of ice. It was a sub station for solitaire Ice And Coal. You just asked the attendant for two 15cent blocks of ice and he hacked them off for you and with his tongs loaded them on your wagon.

Now this Ice Man was too scary for us kids. He was an aged black man. Seeing back probably not paid very much in a labor arduous job. He was bent over and had a contorted body and face. I don't remember whether he was amiable or not. I just wanted to get my ice and get out of there. When no one was buying ice he had a stool in front of the ice house he would sit on. To me he just looked menacing with those tongs and ice pick.

The trip home with ice in the summer time was a fun trip. commonly there was some change. And, I would take the change and put it on top of the ice and let it melt down into the block of ice. By the time I got home it could be any inches down into the ice. A exquisite vertical column. How we got the ice cube into the house I don't remember. We probably had a set of ice tongs at home to carry the block of ice in with.

I never relished these jobs our parents put on us. But liking wasn't an option for our generation. We were the cheap labor and yet most of us grew up without going to jail. And we got an education that allowed us to withhold and raise our families. Chores were just like growing up - they just happened. The chores were there and we were staggering to help.

The Ice Man - 1940

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Stomach Hurts - Does Your Stomach Hurt After Eating Food? - This Could Be Why

Do you often feel like your stomach hurts or has pain after meals or even all the time? If so then today I'll quote the 3 most tasteless causes of persisting stomach pain and what you can do to start eliminating the factors that are creating this severe persisting stress in your life. First things first, you need to realize that there is no drug that will ever cure your stomach pain, at best they can mask the symptoms while the real problem only gets worse. This is like putting a band-aid over a severely infected wound, sure it doesn't look as bad but it's killing you all the same.

3 Major theorize Why your Stomach Hurts all the Time

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Parasites: habitancy think of parasites often as something you can only get from a 3rd world country or from eating raw food, but did you realize that many raw vegetables and fruit can carry parasites. As well they are all over your environment and naturally touching the wrong door knob can mean infection. Parasites can cause severe stomach pain that doesn't seem to let up as there are many forms of parasites that can for real live in the lining of your stomach. Often these parasites will only be able to exist when there is a low stomach acid production, this is quite often a direct symptom of a candida overgrowth.

Bacteria: Many bacteria such as H. Pylori can cause very painful ulcers in the stomach. Often doctors will prescription anti-inflammatory drugs, when in reality these do nothing to destroy the bacteria. When given an anti-biotic to destroy the bacteria, this will create a candida overgrowth as a side effect. No drug comes without some kind of side effect.

Candida: This is a yeast that exists in an estimated minimum of 90% of the population. After the age of about 3-5 its estimated that 100% of the habitancy will have candida in their body. This any way is not the problem, the problem is when something else happens in your body that changes the body's natural functions and as a consequent allows for candida to overgrow in the body to colossal levels. This is where a faultless dysfunction of the immune, digestive and nervous systems can take place. Symptoms experienced can be whatever from digestive problems such as Ibs to persisting depression and anxiety to severe respiratory conditions such as asthma where an estimated 95% of asthmatics were shown to have an overgrowth of candida in their body.

The best start is to decree if you have candida by taking a candida test or questionnaire to decree if your current set of symptoms are isolated or directly associated to a candida overgrowth.

Stomach Hurts - Does Your Stomach Hurt After Eating Food? - This Could Be Why

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nautical Refrigeration

How does maritime refrigeration work? The major parts of a Dc refrigeration theory include the refrigerant, a compressor, and a condenser, a cooling theory for condenser, and a plate or plates inside the refrigeration box. 

The compressor is part of a fulfilled, loop pumping refrigerant straight through the theory and straight through the evaporator plate in the ice box. The compressor has two sides the High side or removal side. The removal side pumps refrigerant under pressure to the condenser. The suction side or low side and sucks refrigerant after it passes thru the evaporator plate back to the compressor. The cold plates in the fridge space have whether expansion valves or capillary tube that detach the low and high pressure sides of the refrigeration system.

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The refrigerant in the compressor starts as a gas. The compressor compresses the refrigerant gas, from low pressure to high pressure between 100-150 psi. When the pressure is increased like this its temperature is raised dramatically. This hot high pressure refrigerant is then fed to a condenser, where it is cooled and turned into a liquid. The condenser is cooled by whether air or water. The refrigerant is now a cool high pressure liquid and is fed to an evaporator plate inside the boats refrigerator box.

The evaporator plate takes the refrigerant from the condenser and here it boils rapidly & evaporates back to a gas, at a very low temperature. This turn of state absorbs vast amounts of sensible heat from the evaporator which in turn removes heat from the insulated refrigeration box, thereby lowering its temperature. The Btu is the determination of heat removed. From the evaporator plate the refrigerant is returned to the low side of the compressor, to start the process again.

Evaporator or retention Plates

Marine refrigeration systems use whether an evaporator plate or a retention plate in the boats refrigeration space or freezer space. Each type of plate works differently in drawing heat from the boats refrigerator and ice box space.

Marine Evaporator

Marine Evaporators are just like the ones found in household refrigerators. They can get quite cold (thermostat setting) and many evaporators have the quality to make ice next to the evaporator plate or inside the evaporator box. Evaporators come in some shapes and sizes; they can be horizontal plate's vertical plates and rolled plates. Evaporators are constant cycling, or short cycle. Most use a Danfoss maritime compressor with H134 refrigerant.

Thermostat controlled evaporator temperature. Turn to lower ice box temperature. Evaporator plates are less expensive, but need Constant power supply.

Marine retention plates

Marine Refrigerator retention Plates act like large blocks of ice and the cold temperature of the retention plate sucks heat out of the boats refrigeration box. retention plates can keep ice boxes cold for long periods.

The main advantage of a retention plate over an evaporator is that they only need to be recharged 1 or 2 times per day. This charging can coincide with attaching to shore power, running the engine and so the refrigerator does not rely on the battery bank. When incorporated into a properly designed system, holdover plates can significantly sell out average power consumption. However Dc retention plates are also possible.  The retention plate is filled with a solution that has a freezing point below 23 degrees F.  As the compressor runs, the refrigerant passes straight through the retention Plates coil, freezing the retention plate solution. The compressor turns of and as the retention plate thaws out, heat is removed from the box.

Powering the Compressor

The power furnish to the compressor is one of the key elements of the boats refrigeration system. Refrigeration is one of the largest power consumers onboard, so the power furnish is an important element of the system. Power supplies to maritime refrigeration systems include Ac, Dc, Shore Power, engine power, and hybrid systems. Hybrids are combinations of say 12 volt and engine drive, or engine and shore power. The whole point in seeing at power furnish to your boats refrigerator is to integrate it into onboard power requirements for all your boats maritime systems. If you run a generator much of the time then adding on an Ac refrigeration unit may make sense, but unless you do, you would be good at seeing at 12 V, engine or shore power.

Power can be decided on how you use your boat. Are you tied up at a dock for much of the time and take days trips. Or do you cruise and spend large amounts of time at anchor. Finally are you Powerboating or sailing will also work on power supply. sailing means no charging of batteries or power from the engine. Here a solar panel or wind or towed generator can help replenish batteries. If you spend time at the dock, a Dc theory has plentifulness of time to recharge on shore power. If you spend time motoring and at the dock and engine drive with shore aid works well.

Ac 110 volt maritime refrigeration     

These drop in refrigerators are like the one in your home and are commonly seen on larges boats with an plentifulness of Ac power and space. The Ac powers the maritime compressor, and the condenser is typically air cooled. A reliable Ac furnish is needed in the form of a generator.

Dc maritime refrigeration with Evaporator plate

 One of the cheapest maritime refrigeration theory and easiest to setup is the 12 v or Dc system. Air cooling is the simplest. The Dc theory combined with an evaporator plate that is thermostatically controlled gives flexibility over cooling requirements. Many 12 volt systems use the Danfoss compressor. With the increased efficiency of the Danfoss compressor, Dc refrigeration onboard is getting more efficient, but is still power hungry.

For most boats with a small box, a particular 12V compressor, air cooled condenser, with evaporator type plate will be about the cheapest option. The Adler Barbour Cold engine has been nearby for nearby 25 years and provides great refrigeration for small to medium size ice boxes. 

Shore powered maritime refrigeration

Shore powered systems are made to maintain the boat's ice box at set temperature when the boat is at the dock. They offer less power than direct from an engine drive but since you will be at the dock for a while that is not an issue.

If you use a retention plate and shore powered theory you can keep the plate cool while away from the dock for 12 hours or so.

 Engine powered maritime refrigeration

The idea behind an engine driven compressor theory is that the engine gets used anyway for at lest an hour or so. If you are Powerboating this makes sense, if you are sailing theorize how much time you use the engine.

If this is the case an engine drive with a retention plate can draw down the ice box in a short duration and after that it can be left for 12 plus hours.

The compressor is run directly off the engine. Belt driven or direct compressor, There are two plates and you can add more, plus ad a detach freezer unit. This creates much power and fast cooling of the retention plate. More power than a 110 volt system. Larger systems and multiple plates are possible. engine driven systems cost more and also involve a labor higher cost    

Condenser Cooling

The maritime refrigeration systems condenser needs cooling. This is how the refrigerant gets cooled and turned into a liquid. There are 3 ways to cool the condenser;

Air Cooled

Air cooling simplifies installation plus it does not rely on water or adding thru hulls. It is therefore the cheapest installation. For smaller units air cooling is Ok, say 4 cu ft or under 6 cu ft you will get adequate performance. The air cooling unit needs a adequate furnish of re-circulated air for it to work. Ducting and space nearby the unit will help this.

When you cool by air flow you take off heat from the condenser and ad it to the ambient temperature. The temperature inside of the cabin only has adequate capacity to disperse this heat.

Water cooled Condenser

Water cooled compressors will work good in higher ambient temperatures and are more sufficient and can be 30% more efficient. Water cooling may be best and is good for larger installs especially if freezer is concerned. Water cooling needs a thru hull and a pump to get the water to the condenser. The most sufficient way to cool the condenser

Keel cooler Condenser

The keel cooler or keel condenser requires no thru hull fitting and will not be field to clogging. The keel cooler is a 3" x 7" bronze plate that mounts on the covering of the hull and it is the condenser heat exchanger. The bronze plates are connected direct to the compressor which is the only spirited part in the system. The Keel Cooler is for a box up to a 15 cu ft refrigerator or 5 cu ft freezer. Since all the heat is passed into the water covering the boat it will does not heat up the interior. Since it works without a water pump there is never a pump or strainer to maintain and best of all it is nearly silent in operation.

Refrigeration Compressor & plate Combination

Before we pick a size of maritime refrigerator we need to understand what factors are complex in retention the refrigeration box cool. They are generally box size, insulation and cooling water temperature, amount of population aboard and the temperature you are setting the plates for.

Refrigerator Box Volume

This is obvious, the larger the box the more heat removal is necessary. A larger box will need more Btus of heat removal. After this basic size issue we have things like, Front opportunity or top opening. Front opportunity lets cold air out swiftly but does allow you to get to the lowest of the box. Drains, if you had a drain for you ice box plug it. You will not need to drain water out of the ice box and this will only let cold air out and heat in. Gaskets, these are a must and must be properly sealed. A trick to identify if there are gaps in the gasket is to put a piece of paper in between the lid or door and the cabinet and close it. Pull on the paper and you should feel some drag if the gaskets are sealing properly. It comes out precisely there is a gap. Get new or good gasket material.

Insulation  

Typical insulation to a fridge or freezer is foam insulation like Dow Blue board. The suggestion is for 3-4 inches for refrigeration and 4-6 inches for freezer for medium sized boxes. Foam has an R value of 5 per inch thickness, R being a thermal unit. This means in terms of thermal units 3-4 inches represents 15-20R value for the refrigeration unit, and 20-30 for the freezer.

There are manufacturers of vacuum panel thermal insulation. The Glacier bay wall Ultra-R super-insulation at R-50 per inch provides lots of insulation without taking up needful volume. These panels are vacuum panels and are sealed to work. It is very important that you do not drill straight through or puncture these panels. These panels are convention made, so you would need to furnish the manufacturer, exact sizes with locations for copper plate tubes to enter the box. These are built into the panels.

Water temperature

In the tropics water temperature is a lot warmer then northern climates. For every degree water temperature increases a corresponding 2 % growth in required Btu. If you are in the Atlantic portions of the east coast Us, you have some cool sea water temps, but of you then cruise down to the Caribbean you may strain your refrigeration system.

Plate Thermostat

The evaporator plate temperature is set by the thermostat. Dial the box temperature down and the theory will have to work harder.

Number of population aboard

More population means the box gets opened more and the heat build up from more population adds to the ambient temperature.

How big a Refrigeration theory is required?

To theorize how big a refrigeration or maritime freezing unit required, you will need to start with an appraisal of the Btu requirements of the box. A uncomplicated rule of thumb for estimating the Btus is based on the box volume.

These Btu estimations are based on these assumptions;

- Insulation has an R value of 30 no leaks.
- Water temperatures are tropical in the mid 80s F.
- 2 population aboard, for each extra person add an additional 1,000 daily Btu
- Top opportunity box, for a front opportunity door add 15 Btu/inch of door

Btu appraisal on refrigeration volume;

Refrigerator daily heat load; 600 Btu per cu. Ft.

Freezer daily heat load; 1200 Btu per cu. Ft

Lets look at how this works for the 4 cu ft refrigeration system, using the above formula

4 cu. Ft. Times 600  =   2,400 Btu.

Two additional population on board =   2,000 Btu.

Total required per day   = 4,400 Btu

Choosing 12 volt unit with Evaporator

Match this amount to the compressor capabilities, and then theorize amps needed to power the system, and then work on the battery bank capability. Start by using the 4,400 Btu form the above example. The Adler Barbour Cold engine uses the Danfoss Bd50 Compressor is rated at 650Btu / hr based on 25F evaporator temp.

This is well above the 4,400/day we need for the 4 cu ft fridge, using only about 1/3 of the power. We could precisely go down the Danfoss Db35.

Amps

To theorize how many amps the theory will draw we start by converting Btus to amps with this formula, using an assumption of 5 Btus per watt hr of power used. Btu/5/volts. So say we have 4400 Btus and 12 volts, 4,400/5/12=74 amp hours/day.

Battery Bank

The Amps needed to power the compressor should be 1/4 of the capacity of the house bank. So for the above 74 amp hours needed multiply by 4 to get recommended house battery capacity = 296 amp hrs

Conclusion

These days being on the water means retention food and drinks cold. 12 volt refrigeration units are becoming more beloved with technological advances. Greater compressor efficiency and evaporator technology brings 12 volt cooling to the smallest of boats.

nautical Refrigeration

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